How to Choose a Soundbar: What Actually Matters
Recommended picks
Channel Count: 2.0, 2.1, 5.1, or Higher
The numbers in a soundbar's channel rating tell you how many speaker drivers are working and whether a subwoofer is included. A 2.0 system like the Bose 732522-5110 (rated 4.5 stars across 18,200 reviews at around $199) uses 36 watts and two channels, which is plenty for clear dialogue in smaller rooms. A 2.1 setup adds a dedicated subwoofer channel, meaning bass is handled by a separate driver or enclosure, and you feel action scenes rather than just hear them. Step up to 5.1 and you get front left, center, front right, plus two surround channels and a subwoofer, which is the minimum most home theater enthusiasts target. Configurations like 7.1.4 or 9.1.4 add height channels for overhead audio formats, which only pay off in rooms large enough to spread that sound around.
Connectivity: HDMI ARC, Optical, Bluetooth, and Wi-Fi
How a soundbar connects to your TV determines what audio formats it can receive and how easy it is to control. HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel) carries high-quality audio in both directions over a single cable and lets your TV remote control volume, making it the cleanest setup. Optical is the reliable fallback, widely supported but limited to stereo or basic Dolby Digital 5.1 with no lossless formats. Bluetooth lets you stream music from a phone without involving the TV, and most mid-range and up bars include it. Wi-Fi connectivity, found on bars like the Sonos Arc, enables multi-room audio and higher-bandwidth streaming but adds cost. Check your TV's rear panel before buying: if it has HDMI ARC, prioritize bars that match it.
Room Size and Placement
A soundbar that fills a 400-square-foot living room will overwhelm a small bedroom and vice versa. For rooms under roughly 200 square feet, a compact 2.0 bar with 36 to 60 watts is enough. Mid-size living rooms, roughly 200 to 400 square feet, benefit from a 2.1 or 5.1 system with 100 to 300 watts and a separate subwoofer. Larger open-plan spaces need more output and wider dispersion, which is where 5.1 bars rated 400 watts or more, like the JBL Bar 500 (4.5 stars, 735 reviews, 590 watts, 5.1 channels, around $387), come into play. Placement matters too: most bars are designed for placement directly in front of the TV, either on a shelf or wall-mounted. Check that the bar's width does not block your TV's IR sensor, and confirm wall-mount hardware is included if that is your plan.
Dolby Atmos and DTS:X: Do You Need Object-Based Audio?
Dolby Atmos and DTS:X are object-based audio formats that place individual sounds in three-dimensional space, including overhead. To get any benefit from them, your source content must carry an Atmos or DTS:X track, your TV or streaming device must pass that signal through, and the soundbar must decode it. Many streaming services now include Atmos tracks on 4K content, so if you watch Netflix, Disney+, or Apple TV+, a compatible bar will see real use. Bars with a third number in their channel rating, such as 3.1.2 or 5.1.4, include upward-firing drivers that bounce sound off the ceiling to simulate height. If your ceiling is below eight feet or heavily textured, that bounce effect works less reliably. A good 5.1 bar without Atmos will still outperform a 2.0 bar on any content.
Subwoofer: Built-In, Wireless, or Skip It
Some soundbars include bass drivers built into the main enclosure, while others ship with a separate subwoofer that connects wirelessly or via cable. A built-in approach keeps cords off the floor and suits smaller rooms where placing a separate sub is impractical. A separate wireless subwoofer gives you more placement flexibility and usually produces deeper, more powerful bass because the enclosure can be larger. The Vizio V21x-J8 (4.5 stars, 632 reviews, $179.99) is a 2.1 system rated at 60 watts that ships with a wireless sub, a solid value for mid-size rooms. If you already own a quality powered subwoofer, look for a soundbar with a subwoofer output so you can integrate them. On the other hand, if your content is mostly news, sports, and daytime TV, a built-in 2.0 bar may be entirely sufficient.
Budget Ranges and What to Expect at Each
Under $150: mostly 2.0 bars with Bluetooth and optical, limited output, fine for bedrooms or small offices. $150 to $300: 2.1 and some 5.1 options appear, wireless subs become common, build quality improves noticeably, and HDMI ARC connectivity is expected. $300 to $600: reliable 5.1 surround, stronger wattage, better DSP processing, and solid build from brands like JBL, Sony, Yamaha, and Polk. $600 and up: wide 5.1.4 or 9.1.4 configs, full Atmos decoding, multi-room capability, premium drivers, and features like room correction. Spending more does not guarantee better sound for your specific room: a $387 5.1 bar in the right space will often sound more convincing than a $900 bar crammed into a 10-by-10 room.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Buying a bar wider than the TV stand shelf, then discovering it blocks the remote sensor or overhangs dangerously.
- Choosing a 5.1 or Atmos bar without confirming the TV passes Dolby Digital 5.1 or Atmos over its ARC port, and then hearing only stereo.
- Skipping the subwoofer on a 2.0 budget bar and expecting room-filling bass during action films.
- Wall-mounting a bar and only then realizing wall-mount hardware is sold separately and the stud spacing does not match.
- Paying for high channel counts in a room under 150 square feet where surround speakers are too close together to create a convincing soundstage.
- Ignoring the TV's audio output settings: many TVs default to PCM stereo even through HDMI ARC, stripping all surround information before it reaches the bar.
Frequently asked questions
Does a soundbar replace a full surround sound system?
A soundbar simplifies setup considerably compared to a traditional 5.1 or 7.1 receiver-and-speaker system, but it does not fully replicate discrete physical surround speakers placed around the room. High-channel bars use DSP tricks and upward-firing drivers to approximate surround effect, and in smaller rooms the result is convincing enough for most listeners. If maximum accuracy and room-filling envelopment are priorities, a separate receiver with discrete speakers still has the edge, but the cable and placement complexity is far greater.
What is the difference between HDMI ARC and HDMI eARC?
ARC (Audio Return Channel) sends audio from the TV back to the soundbar over a standard HDMI cable, but its bandwidth is limited to compressed formats like Dolby Digital 5.1. eARC (enhanced ARC) expands that bandwidth to support lossless Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio, which is the full-quality version of Atmos found on 4K Blu-rays. Both the TV and the soundbar need eARC ports for you to benefit. If your TV only has ARC and not eARC, you will still get Atmos but in the compressed Dolby Digital Plus version, not the lossless version.
How important is wattage when comparing soundbars?
Wattage is one factor, but it is inconsistently reported across brands and means less than the overall driver design and room match. Some bars report peak power, others RMS, and the measurement methods vary. A well-designed 60-watt bar can outperform a poorly tuned 400-watt bar in normal listening rooms. Use wattage as a rough guide, especially for room size, but weight it alongside real user review counts and ratings, not as the primary spec.
Can I add a separate subwoofer to any soundbar?
Not to any soundbar. To connect a third-party powered subwoofer, the bar must have a dedicated subwoofer output, usually a 3.5mm mono jack or RCA output. Most budget and mid-range all-in-one bars do not include this port, and those that ship with wireless subs typically pair only with the manufacturer's own sub. If you want to use a subwoofer you already own, check the bar's spec sheet for a subwoofer output before purchasing.
Should I buy a soundbar from the same brand as my TV?
Same-brand pairings can simplify setup, since some manufacturers build in direct control protocols so the TV remote adjusts soundbar volume without any HDMI ARC configuration. However, cross-brand setups with HDMI ARC work reliably in practice, and audio quality differences between brands matter far more than brand matching. Choose the bar that fits your channel needs, room size, and budget, then verify it supports HDMI ARC for easy volume control.